Indianapolis has great food
“Indianapolis,” he said.
The Circle City. Home of the Indy 500, the NCAA, GenCon, VeeCon, and 17 other cons, I thought.
“Has great food.”
Bullshit.
Boy oh boy was I wrong.
Highly recommended
Bodhi
Thai, Michelin-star quality all around. My only gripe is that they don’t allow kids, so my 11 year old daughter who loves Thai food has to wait a decade to enjoy it straight from the kitchen. For you, dear reader, 21+ may be an advantage.
Tinker Street
American Bistro. Also Michelin-star quality. No, I do not say Michelin-star quality about every restaurant on this list. Same 21+ commentary as above.
Hoagies and Hops
Epic Philly cheesesteaks and hoagies. My father-in-law says it’s the best cheesesteak he has ever had, including the ones he ate in Philly. Wiz + Cooper Sharp recommended, like the jawns we used to get on County Line Road.
Julieta’s Taco
If you had asked me before I came here “how many tacos have you had in your life?” I would have said “thousands.” If you had asked me right after I left, I would have said “three.”
Kaffeine Coffee Company
Great coffee and espresso drinks, including some unusual options. Industrial, spartan vibe; great for focus. Be warned: there is only one gender-neutral bathroom, and the only way to know it’s occupied is to try to open the door. I recently did this three or four times before the occupant finally informed me that they were, in fact, in there. I showed myself out.
Parlor Public House
This one is much more of a vibe than Kaffeine, with mid-century modern style and cocktails in the evening. The seasonal coffee creations include some truly bizarre, concoctions. My favorite was made with coffee, BBQ sauce, and black pepper, served with cheese cubes: “When you have been cooking a brisket all night, that first sip of morning coffee tastes incredible.” Who knew that the best part of waking up really is Folger’s and Sweet Baby Ray’s in your cup.
Shapiro’s
Step back in time to an iconic deli from a long gone era. Don’t be thrown off by the decor, which was last updated when a sandwich cost $3.95. Pastrami, corned beef, are always stellar, but don’t sleep on the peppered beef if that’s your thing.
His Place
An Indianapolis soul food institution. My neighbor says it’s “almost as good as grandma’s.” It was featured on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives. Don’t be thrown off by this: it is excellent.
9th Street Bistro
You might be surprised to learn that Indianapolis has suburbs. This spot is in Noblesville, about 25 minutes away, an expedition by Indy standards. This American bistro is more than worth the drive.
Yaso
Close your eyes. Take a bite of jerk chicken. Taste the spice of the jerk, the slight bitterness of the charred ends of the crispy skin. Feel the hot grease trickle down your lips. You are on a beautiful white sandy beach, surrounded by crystal blue water, so blue it is hard to tell where the water ends and the sky begins. Open your eyes. You are in an unassuming shop on the South side of Indianapolis. Magic is real. Irie, bredren!
Vida
Fine dining, way better than “fine.” They offer a multi-course tasting menu and wine pairing. Any dish on the tasting menu can be subbed for any other. Maybe for my birthday I go for 9 courses of dessert.
Recommended
Strange Bird
Oysters, ramen, tiki drinks, nestled in historic Irvington. Spectacular!
Bosphorus
Like eating dinner at your Turkish friend’s house. You may occasionally hear yelling from the kitchen. It’s part of the vibe.
Borage
Bakery. Cafe. Brunch. Market. Is there anything they can’t do?
Hasuno
Surprisingly elegant and well-executed sushi in a completely unassuming setting. Short of a $900/person omakase, it’s tough to do much better. Added bonus: a statistically small but significantly higher than average chance of encountering Caitlin Clark.
Nowhere Special
Classic and avant-garde cocktails in a dimly lit basement lounge. It gives speakeasy, Chicago gangster. Both types of drinks are excellent, and the physical cocktail menu is a work of art.
Bocca
The food here is always really good and is sometimes outstanding. It not only tastes delicious when eating, but the wonderful aromas can also be savored hours later.
Bluebeard
Lunch here is stellar. I love a good Italian grinder, even in salad form.
Diavola
Awesome Neapolitan pizza. Better than in Naples [goes into hiding].
Gather 22
Great casual neighborhood spot, serving lunch, brunch, dinner, and coffee. Just make sure you have an hour or two to spare.
Workingman’s Friend
The griddle predates electricity, which is probably why the burgers are so good. They also recognize only gold doubloons and cold hard cash as legal tender.
Axum
Spicy, savory flavors, eaten with injera, a sourdough pancake that replaces knife, fork, and napkin. Love Ethiopian food!
Marrakesh
Ever had chicken for dessert?
Fat Dan’s/20 Tap
A great example of spatial competition: two places next door to each other in Broad Ripple, both offering excellent bar food, beers on tap, and all manner of sporting events on TV. Fat Dan’s is known for its frites, which, according to a French person I know, are the best in Indy. 20 Tap has a somewhat more diverse menu.
Prime 47/Commission Row
When my family first moved to Indy, we went to a fairly well-known steakhouse. I asked the server if a particular cut was “prime,” and he had no idea what I was talking about. He asked a second server, who also had no idea. Such an event is inconceivable at either of these places, my two favorite steakhouses in town. Prime 47 is slightly more refined, but Commission Row is right next to Gainbridge, making it especially convenient before or after an event.
Milktooth
Tell me another place where you can cover every food group with two Dutch babies. Or two waffles.
Specialty
1933 Lounge
The shrimp cocktail consumes a significant fraction of the world’s horseradish. Painful, but also weirdly addictive. Also helps with congestion.
Homey Hot Pot
An authentic, awesome hot pot experience. According to a Chinese friend, it is comparable to similar establishments in the old country. Just don’t expect white tablecloths. Or tablecloths. Or tables.
Leviathan
I can’t recommend this place broadly, because in the 20 or so times I’ve been here I’ve only ever ordered one thing: the jambon-beurre. I want to meet the lunatic who first put rich ham on a baguette and thought, “Gosh, this is missing something. Let’s add some 82% butter.” I would kiss the crazy fool.